Under the Tuscan Clouds

So while in Florence, we decided that it would be an opportune time to tour Tuscany and all it has to offer…vineyards, and of course, WINE.  Tim used his connections to hook us up with a tour of the Frescobaldi estate close to Florence.  We took the train about 20 minutes from Florence, a quick taxi, and we were at one of the MOST beautiful sites in the world.  The vineyard had a castle that was about 1000 years old – the Frescobaldi family used to vacation in summer on site.  Our tour was scheduled for 2pm and we really didn’t know what to expect.  We arrived around 1 and started snapping photos.  Pics to follow.  The vineyard was in harvest, we we were able to see everything in action.  Besides wine, the estate also produced olive oil.  I find olive trees to be particularly beautiful. 

Giancarlo greeted us around 1:30 and we started the tour.  The Frescobaldi family has always run the vineyard, and they are currently in the 30^th generation.  I find this to be amazing – a family run business that makes some good money and no divisions in 30 generations?!  Our tourguide said they are very down to earth people and anyone who joins the company stays for quite awhile (perhaps their whole career!) because of how they run the business.  We started with a tour of the de-viner..the grapes are put in this machine and then are put into a stainless steel container.  This container constantly pushes the skins into the liquid – this is where they get all of their flavor.  Rose wine stays for 12 hours, reds stay for 20-30 days.  (Side note – I’m writing this from memory so maybe all of the facts aren’t 100% correct.  I’m close though, at least I think).  They are then put into oak barrels for 2 years.  One year upstairs, and one year downstairs.  Ferment away!

Frescobaldi does something I found to be very interesting when it comes to picking their oak barrels.  Each year, they invite all of the oak barrell producers from France and the like to a dinner.  They each bring one sample of their barrel.  Frescobaldi fills each with their wine.  One year later, each of the barrell producers come back and they participate in a blind taste test.  They rate the wine they drink.  Highest score wins…and Frescobaldi places one big order!

After we toured the celler, we headed in for the much anticipated wine/olive oil tasting.  This spread knocked our socks off.  We first tried Frescobaldi olive oil – according to our guide, this oil was just for dipping bread as it is too strong for cooking.  Well I can tell you it was YUMMY for dipping bread.  Next we had cheese, proscuitto and salami.  Frescobaldi has a farm JUST for their guests meat.  Not kidding.  It was damn good too.  While we munched, our hosts poured three red wines – Nipozzano (12-15 E), Montesodi (35-40 E), and Mormoretto (150 E).   Now it was time to taste!

This is my opinion – so take it as you like.  I thought the Nipozzano was delicious.  I liked how smooth it was.  Not a huge fan of the Montesodi – the smell was really strong as was the taste.  Matt and Tim enjoyed this one.  My fav of the three was the Momoretto.  Very nice smooth flavor, nice smells.   Joanna’s favorite was also the Montesodi.

We finished up our tasting and headed back to Florence – our tourguide offered to give us a lift back, and we’re glad he did – it started POURING.  I must say the vineyard is pretty in the rain – the clouds added a nice photo-op.  Back in Florence, we relaxed a little before heading to dinner.  We made reservations at Giostra – we had tried a few times to get in here and we thankfully were able to score a spot on our last night.  This place came with many recommendations, and it definitely lived up to all of the hype!  Décor, music (all from Joanna’s ipod – we had some Pink Floyd, U2 etc), and of course, food.  Joanna had pear and nut ravioli things that were delicious, Tim had steak with arugula (rocket is how they translate arugula in english??) and parmesan cheese, Matt had Ravioli stuffed with cheese and topped with a yummy meat sauce and Osso Bucco.  I had papperdelli (homemade) topped with wild boar.  DELICIOUS!  Great ending to a great day.  To Venice tommorow!

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